On the Move in Croatia

Ross and Jessie getting reacquainted on the SUP 

Marina and Jessie testing out the new bow cushions

After a restful night at Luka Sipan where we had a nice dinner out, we went to the National Park on the northwest side of Mljet. We had scouted out this anchorage with Mike and Matt and we decided it was top drawer. We also wanted to be in a place so we could watch the two final games of the World Cup. Jessie was rooting for Netherlands against Brasil – she was happy, and in honour of Marina’s mom Tina we were rooting for Germany over Argentina. The Brasil game seemed almost like a replay of the Germany game – where they couldn’t keep the ball out of their net. The final was pretty exciting … we felt the Germans had the majority of play in the Argentinian’s zone, but there were a number of very good chances by Argentina that made the game exciting. We were all relieved that the game was decided before PK’s though … not our favourite way to see a championship decided.

From Mljet we proceeded to Korcula – beautiful town where we anchored in a bay nearby. We went shopping in Korcula and bought phone credits … out of internet again … and then proceeded up-coast to Hvar. We had intended to visit the north-east corner of Korcula but the wind wasn’t cooperating so we (really I) made a command decision that we would go where the wind would take us … as opposed to go where we wanted … which was directly into the wind. We found a tight corner of a bay to anchor in, but were unaware of a night club that started pounding out music and a light show from midnight until 07:00 where it begins to look like a beautiful beach club once more. Needless to say we have decided to pick another bay next time in Hvar.

Moonrise at anchor in Mljet

From Hvar we sailed to Brac, the next island up towards Split. Our initial trip we turned around when we saw rainshowers and lightning and chose to spend another day on Hvar. The next morning we got up and tried again and found it a nice sail into the bay of Lucice. We were charged 40 euros to use a mooring ball  (ouch) and then dinner was another 140 Euros … I had a Caiparina drink – cost 80 Kuna or about $16. What was I thinking … I don’t ever remember ordering a Zombie at a hotel bar in Vancouver!

Anyway the next day when I made coffee we ran out of gas … no problem I’ll just switch the cylinder … ooops … they’re both empty. This became the odyssey of getting camping-gaz for our stove that we set out on for the next couple of days. The first try was to walk into Milna on Brac – about 2kms each way carrying a couple of propane gas cylinders. The marina only sold new cylinders at $110 each. I thought about it but where will I fill it, and when back in Greece I’ll just end up trading it for some beat-up old piece of crap so … plan B. Pizza! There is an outstanding pizzeria in Milna and they sell 1.0 liter beers ... so you can have a pizza and 2 beers and not feel guilty.

Panorama shot of one of the salt-water lakes on Mljet

After finding our way back to the boat we decided to go to Supetar the next morning. About 12 miles away, also on Brac, they had a picture of a propane capable gas station on their web-page. We arrived, anchored out, took the dinghy to shore. Nope. Don’t know where you can get any. Given the thousands of cruising sailboats and powerboats in and around Croatia you’d think they’d have a big need … but then again, most are chartered for less than 2 weeks and never run out. Hmmm.. Plan C was to go to Split – or a suburb of it and go to the Ina Plin – a mythical fuelling station that exists only in the minds of people that write the guide-books. Anyway, I took off with two empty gas bottles off to where we thought the LPG station was. After a couple of KMs I stopped at a Fire-hall. Who better to know where an LPG fueling station is right? Anyway they told me the bad news … I had walked about 2kms in the wrong direction but they gave me the name and address (oh yeah, I forgot my phone in a Ziplock baggie on the boat – didn’t want to get it wet). So another 2kms and there it was. The guy was helpful and said, come back tomorrow … I must have made some pathetic whimper so he called the ‘factory’ and then hopped in his little truck with my gas bottles and said come back in a half hour. I visited the local Lido – a kind of small-sized Costco/Grocery that had serious air-conditioning … that restored some of my strength. A half hour later I rescued the bottles and started my 2km walk back to Tara. Our original plan was for me to call Marina when I was at the dock but since I forgot my phone that wasn’t going to work out so well. Anyway, she was diligently waiting on deck and came to get me with a bag of trash and about 100 crushed water bottles for recycling. Once deposited we came back to Tara and headed off to Solta … About half way I looked at the AIS and saw a ferry was going to run us over in 15 minutes … came up on deck and told everyone. We then got some bread and cheese up on deck and were chit-chatting away and Ross said “Dad!” rather emphatically pointing over my shoulder at a 300 foot ferry chunking along about to hit us in a minute or so. I leapt up and altered course, waved, and then resumed our course. Technology is great but if you ignore it … how good is it, anyway. 

We anchored on Solta, started a movie – I lasted 10 minutes, Marina 20.